Riding Around the Horizon: Mille Lacs
Around a lake you can't see across...
On May 26, 2019 I rode my bike all the way around Mille Lacs, a lake in north-central Minnesota. Mille Lacs is known for its excellent walleye fishing, home to the Mille Lacs Band of Ojibwe, and two beautiful Minnesota State Parks. The ride around is mostly road riding with a short stint on the Soo Line ATV / Bike trail at the end. It is 64 miles, but shorter if you stay on the road and do not take the Soo Line.
The Lake is large and round, and it is just large enough that the water disappears at the horizon. The land around it is flat, but strange things happen with visibility as you travel around. It's not uncommon to see the horizon jump and appear jagged. It is disconcerting and incredibly empowering to know that you can and did ride your bike all the way to the end of what the eye can see.
The Route
Distance: 64 miles
My MPH: 14.10
Stops:
- Hogsback Beach
For quiet beach time, no services, portapotties - Garrison
Gas station amenities, including snacks
Riding Conditions:
Mostly on-road with high speed traffic, 1/2 the time without a shoulder. Drivers are respectful, but cyclists should be comfortable with navigating these conditions.
I began at the beach in Father Hennepin State Park, where I was staying the night that evening, and headed counterclockwise, through Isle and north on MN 47. MN 47 joins MN 18 for several miles until Malmo, on the North Eastern part of the lake. Then, I took a left to go along 18 and continued along the north end of the lake.
The north end of the lake was the most scenic. I found that most of the lakeshore along 47 was owned by private businesses and families. There were many side roads going towards the lake, but it was unclear if they were thru streets or just owned by the resorts nearby.
Along 18, in the middle of the north end of the lake, there is a turn out at Hogsback Beach, which makes an excellent 1/3 stopping point at 19 1/2 miles into the ride. This was a peaceful place to rest and contemplate the water.
18 ends at a T intersection at US 169. Take a left. This is a pretty busy highway, but has ample shoulder room. There are portions of it that are four lane highways. MN 47 & 18 are 55mph roads with no shoulder, but drivers were kind and I didn't get harassed at all (though I ride very far to the right.)
US 169 goes through Garrison on to Mille Lacs. I stayed on the highway through Garrison, stopping for a water refill, gummy bears and combos at a local gas station (solid life choices.) In 2019 there was some construction on 169 that removed the shoulder in town and caused me some anxiety, but these portions of the road were short and drivers were respectful.
After approaching a stoplight and a near-8 lane intersection on 169, I got a bit over-anxious by the highway. I took a left onto Twilight Road, which hugged the south western shoreline and was a much calmer ride through state park shoreline and resort communities. The smell of campfires was welcome and delightful.
Twilight road ends at MN 27 which can take you straight back to Father Hennepin State Park, or you can do what I did: head south in Cove and pick up the Soo Line Trail. If given the chance again, I wouldn't choose to do this. The connecting street turned into a dirt road, and the Soo Line Trail was poorly paved. (Though, knowing it was an ATV trail, I was glad it was paved at all.) I think it slowed me down, though it did push me over the mark for a metric century, and it was quiet and reflective after being around all those cars. I needed google to tell me when to exit the Soo Line; it's a left on 40th Street, unmarked from the bike trail.
Details of Travel
Places to Camp
Mille Lacs Kathio State Park and Father Hennepin State Park both have drive in tent sites, RV sites, and electrical hook up options. I stayed at a non-electric tent site at Father Hennepin in the Maple Grove campground. It was just a short walk to the shoreline, a fishing peer, and about 1 mile to the beach. I did notice, however, that there didn't appear to be hot water in the showers.
There are countless RV and Trailer parks along Mille Lacs. Some are meant for permanent vacation homes, and some may allow coming and going. That's not my area of expertise, and I stick to the state parks.
More to Do
At Mille Lacs Kathio State Park you can learn about the archeological history of this area, dating back thousands and thousands of years. This is a national historic landmark and one of the most significant archeological sites in Minnesota.
You'll also want to check out the Mille Lacs Ojibwe Museum.
Stoney islands in the middle of Mille Lacs are one of the last roosting places of the common tern. It's a curious story, and if you're a fan of birds, or the stories of animals in relationship to humans, it will intrigue you.
Be Aware
This area is a vacation home destination (goin to the cabin) and traffic along 169 to and from the Twin Cities can get pretty unbearable at certain times. If you don't want to sit in traffic, I suggest avoiding driving up on a Friday evening and back on a Sunday afternoon.